Kuv puas tuaj yeem piv cov tshuaj tsw qab rau cov suab paj nruag?
Vim yog qhov tsis zoo ntawm cov tshuaj lom neeg ntawm cov suab nrov saum toj kawg nkaus, tib neeg tuaj yeem hnov qhov "ntse", "rushing", "unstoppable" saj los ntawm sab saum toj, zoo li cov tswv cuab ntawm tsev neeg citrus (bergamot, txiv qaub, neroli, etc.), txhua tus muaj tus yam ntxwv no. Cov ntawv nruab nrab yog zoo li tenor classical guitar, tsawg catchy tshaj ib tug nkauj laus ncas, tab sis nthuav ntau tshaj ib tug bass. thiab hauv nruab nrab thiab nruab nrab. Nws ua raws li kev sib txuas ntawm nruab nrab thiab cov ntawv hauv paus. Lub hauv paus sau ntawv ntawm naj hoom, zoo li cov ntses bass thaj tsam, yog ib qho nyuaj rau nrhiav tau thaum xub thawj, npog los ntawm sab saum toj thiab nruab nrab, thiab nws yuav tsum tau hnov tsw (mloog) kom zoo zoo. Tab sis lub luag hauj lwm ntawm lub hauv paus sau ntawv yog zoo kawg nkaus. Xws li Ambroxide tuaj yeem txhim kho lub zog ntawm lub suab ntoo.
Flavouring hauv paus
Tam sim no koj paub txog lub tswv yim ntawm pem hauv ntej, nruab nrab thiab sab nraub qaum, cia peb saib seb cov tshuaj tsw qab yog dab tsi. Fragrance yog siv los piav qhia tag nrho cov style ntawm ib lub raj mis naj hoom, ib yam li cov style koj hnav. Luv luv, muaj citrus, flora, woody, ambery, fougère, thiab chypre. Qhov nrov tshaj plaws yog citrus thiab paj sau ntawv. Citrus fragrances tam sim no yeej muaj kev lag luam, xws li Hermes Garden sau los ntawm Jeau-Claude Ellena, CK One, uas tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 1994 tab sis tseem nrov niaj hnub no, thiab Dior thawj tus txiv neej naj hoom sauvage xyoo 1966. Cov no tsis yog kev sib koom ua ke. . Koj tuaj yeem muaj citrus thiab ntoo suab tib lub sijhawm, zoo li Hermes Garden, lossis Armani ncuav Homme.
Flavoring cov ntaub ntawv thiab cov txheej txheem extraction
Dab tsi yog qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab? Cov khoom xyaw uas peb tham txog yog dab tsi? Nws yog ib qho uas pom cov ntaub ntawv ntawm lub txee naj hoom nrog cov npe ntawm ntau yam nroj tsuag, xws li roses, freesia, lavender, thiab lwm yam. Koj ua li cas thiaj li tau txais cov ntxhiab tsw ntawm cov nroj tsuag no rau hauv koj cov naj hoom? Ua ntej ntawm tag nrho cov, muaj ob hom ntawm flavoring khoom. Ib qho yog ntuj, zoo li cov nroj tsuag hais tam sim no, thiab lwm yam yog hluavtaws. Ob qho khoom siv no tseem ceeb heev. Cov khoom siv ntuj tsim tsis yog tsuas yog paj xwb, tab sis kuj cog txiv hmab txiv ntoo (txiv kab ntxwv), nplooj nplooj (Fulmedium), cov cag ntoo (ginger), moss, tawv ntoo, cov txuj lom oriental, thiab lwm yam.
Txoj kev rho tawm raug xaiv raws li cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom sib txawv. Cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo feem ntau yog cov kab mob khaub thuas, uas muaj ntau cov txiv kab ntxwv tawg thiab lim ntawm qhov kub thiab txias los tsim cov txiv kab ntxwv roj. Cov txheej txheem no tsis xav tau cov kuab tshuaj organic, yog li qhov kev xav tshiab ntawm cov nroj tsuag tuaj yeem khaws cia rau qhov loj.
Qhov thib ob txoj kev yog distillation, ncuav ib tug loj npaum li cas ntawm raw cov ntaub ntawv rau hauv lub tank loj thiab ntxiv dej thiab boil, thiaj li hais tias cov ntxhiab molecules dissolve nyob rau hauv cov kuab tshuaj, thiab ces sau cov tseem ceeb roj los ntawm condensation. Lub downside yog tias ilv nroj tsuag tsis muaj txhais tau tias kom rho tawm cov roj yam tseem ceeb li no.
Qhov thib peb txoj kev yog heev qub, hu ua enfleurage. Cov neeg uas tau pom cov yeeb yaj kiab Perfume yuav tsum paub txog nws. Nws yog txhawm rau txuas cov nroj tsuag rau cov roj uas tuaj yeem nqus cov tshuaj tsw qab molecules, thiab thaum kawg boil cov roj zoo thiab muab rho tawm nrog cov roj tseem ceeb.
Tom qab cov kauj ruam saum toj no, koj tuaj yeem tau txais daim ntawv ua ntej ua kua ntawm cov roj tseem ceeb. Thiab tom qab ntawd los ntawm cov yam ntxwv sib txawv ntawm txhua cov khoom siv raw rau qhov sib txawv dilution, koj tuaj yeem tau txais thawj cov khoom siv raw.
Cov no yog cov khoom xyaw ntuj, cia peb tham txog cov khoom xyaw flavoring. Artificial raw khoom yog cov khoom tiav ua los ntawm cov tshuaj synthesis, uas muaj lawv tus kheej zoo. Nyob rau hauv lub qhov muag ntawm tus thawj perfumers, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog ua ntej lub xyoo pua 19th, txhua leej txhua tus tau mob siab rau perfumes ua nrog ntuj cov khoom xyaw. Kom txog rau thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, lub invention ntawm cov khoom xyaw perfuming coj revolutionary hloov mus rau tag nrho cov era. Cov kev ua haujlwm zoo tau raug tsim tawm, xws li Dior Eau Sauvage tau hais ua ntej. Nws yog thawj tus naj npawb hauv keeb kwm siv ntau cov tshuaj tsw qab hluavtaws, thiab muag tau zoo heev. Thawj qhov kom zoo dua ntawm cov khoom siv flavoring yog tias qee cov ntaub ntawv ntuj tsis tuaj yeem ua rau cov roj tseem ceeb, yog li lawv tuaj yeem hloov tau los ntawm cov khoom siv dag zog, xws li strawberry. Lwm qhov zoo dua yog lub peev xwm los tsim cov ntxhiab tsw tshwj xeeb, xws li calone, tsim los ntawm Pfizer hauv xyoo 1951, uas muaj cov ntxhiab tsw qab dej hiav txwv tshwj xeeb (tshiab, tsw ntxhiab me ntsis) thiab tam sim no siv ntau yam ntawm dej hiav txwv-ntsuab perfumes. David's Cool Water yog tej zaum lub npe nrov tshaj plaws. Qhov thib peb kom zoo dua yog tias nws tuaj yeem txuag tau cov nqi thiab hloov cov khoom kim heev.